you want to connect C-wire to the other side of the same end of the transformer that R-wire runs from -- you should read about 24V AC between the terminals + - maybe as much as 4 or 5V while idle, and not much more than that.
I thought I must have been doing something wrong, so I got power kit wanting to do this thing right and It still did not work.
By walking up to the thermostat, It's great that it uses the cloud for connectivity, and there's no reason it could not run server When your connection goes down you can control it -- as others have said --.
It takes lot more fiddling with the resolution touchscreen than the easier to operate interface with mouse or even phone tablet touchscreen to do things like adjusting comfort settings or even just turning on the fan or something.
Actually, someone with the know-how to do these could rig up sensor controlling even Nest or whatever, and again, beyond my abilities sadly ) I feel like every part of this is more expensive than its competitors, and I did need the sensors and could not build my own..
There was no cooling option at all, so it was stuck only in heat mode I guess because W-wire is still connected to W-wire connection even with PEK except Y-wire is not.
I had assumed PEK had done something such as just running the green wire together with the others and it seems not.
Given that I was not sure it was even setting up right so it may be that this is not even right Regardless, I think it may be idea to buy this intending to use PEK.
I'm not sure how well that would work out, presumably the potential is about the same ) I guess the only value PEK may have is powering on the system that first time if it acts up like mine did --.
you get the advantage of fairly software and the advantage of sensors that just work right out of the box with no significant setup or any soldering involved.
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